On Saturday, we'd booked Dark Matter. It was our first venture to proper East Berlin, which is achingly cool
with all its warehouses and industrial architecture. Dark Matter was a light art exhibition. Not
light-hearted, you understand - it was all light installations synced up to sound in otherwise pitch-black
rooms. Very immersive, particularly the bonfire made from orangey light shards. But the most important thing
about this place was that on the way, we passed a circus tent with techno blasting out the gate. We went in,
of course, and joined a queue behind one other couple. They got turned away because he was wearing an army
shirt. We got to the top of the queue, having absolutely no idea what we were queuing for, and a guy with a
very long beard and a face tattoo looked at us and said 'Yes. I like your casual festival vibe.' And let us
in. To be clear, we were both wearing glasses, practical jackets, comfortable footwear and Sam had a pink
backpack. We basically looked like two Dora the Explorers. I'm certain his logic was that no one would be
this uncool unless they were making a statement. Anyway, we spent the next two hours hanging out in an
incredible adult Disneyland. No pictures allowed, sadly, but it's a day/night club in an old factory. The
outside area is all bridges, boats, walkways, structures and huts, and looks like the set of Hook (terrible
film, don't rewatch and ruin your nostalgia). The inside has bars and dancefloors. We met a group of people
who said they'd been there since Wednesday. They offered us some drugs but we explained we still had a lot
of activities to get through so thank you but no.
We tried to do some culture by going to see Checkpoint Charlie. It was fine. Better though, was Charlie's
Beach. Beside Checkpoint Charlie, it's a little sandy area with deckchairs, bars and tat shops.
We had a serious Berghain dilemma. Berghain is a famous nightclub. A sort of anything goes nightclub. We
were desperate to see inside. But everyone we talked to said you'll queue for two hours and have about a 10%
chance of getting in. We were advised to try a different anything goes club, with slightly better odds. We
read up on the dress code for Saturday night, and it said fetish and goth, so we assumed goth would be
acceptable. We studied up on the DJs, having been warned they might quiz us on who we want to see. We
arrived at 10pm and queued for 2 full hours. As we watched people get turned away with literally no logic or
common theme, we made our peace with the fact that we were going to go home and watch Your Place or Mine -
distinctly average Netflix romcom starring Reese Witherspoon. But somehow the bouncer let us in. Perhaps due
to our casual festival vibe again. And I was not prepared.
I'd heard about these clubs. I thought I knew what to expect. I did not. When we got in the door and were
faced with a heaving mass of bondage-clad or entirely naked people, Sam had to tell me to get it together or
we'd be asked to leave. I wanted to be asked to leave. I'm IRISH. I thought the techno spa was stressful
enough, but that was the Antiques Roadshow compared to this. We were both wearing black corsetty style
dresses that we've now both binned because they make us feel like dowdy Amish women. The club is a
complicated mess of corridors, dancefloors, a soft jazz area, a swimming pool and eh… activity rooms. We
walked into one of these activity rooms and I'll never unsee what I saw. Anyway, we were offered more drugs
but
explained no thank you, we have many activities to do tomorrow before our flight home. I have never felt
more out of my depth in my entire life. Holy good god.